Self-drafted boat neck jersey dress


I just finished my first self-drafted jersey pattern. Here’s a picture of my dress.


I wanted a comfortable jersey dress that I could wear to work, and since I finished my patternmaking 2 class at Portland Sewing, all I want to do now is draft clothes.

I was looking for something like this.

I started with my basic torso sloper, and followed instructions on drafting a knit shirt from the book Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women’s Clothing. I first manipulated my darts into the side dart, removed ease at the sides, and drew my neckline. Then I eliminated my side dart by bringing my waist up by that amount.

Here’s a picture of my front and back draft.

I made my back neckline width 1/8 inch wider than my front neckline width to prevent gaping at the center front neckline. You can see on my back draft that my shoulder seam came out a little bit.

I cut a stretch lining fabric using the same front and back pattern pieces, and also cut out a facing. The lining covers the entire front and back, but not the sleeves.

I finished the lower edge of my facing with a serger, then basted it to the lining. I sewed the shoulder seams of both the lining and the fashion fabric, and then sewed my neck edge right sides together. I stitched the facing to the seam to hold it in place. Then I sewed my side seams, permanently attaching my lining to my outer by sewing all 4 fabrics at the same time.

You can see here that my lining is attached to my outer fabric.

I used my double needle for the first time. It was surprisingly easy to use, and made a nice finish that was also stretchy. They have great instructions here:

I’m not quite sure what the fabric is, because I bought it from the Annex section of Mill End, but it’s a woven not a knit, so it must have some spandex in it to give it stretch.


About Karen

Karen first took sewing classes in middle school, but took a break until her husband bought her a sewing machine a few years back. Her MIL taught her how to quilt, and recently, she started making clothes again. Karen is taking sewing classes at Portland Sewing. She took Beginning Sewing 1 2 and 3 in summer 2011, Patternmaking 1 and 2 in Fall 2011, and is currently taking Textiles.

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