I just finished my first self-drafted jersey pattern. Here’s a picture of my dress.
I wanted a comfortable jersey dress that I could wear to work, and since I finished my patternmaking 2 class at Portland Sewing, all I want to do now is draft clothes.
I was looking for something like this.
I started with my basic torso sloper, and followed instructions on drafting a knit shirt from the book Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women’s Clothing. I first manipulated my darts into the side dart, removed ease at the sides, and drew my neckline. Then I eliminated my side dart by bringing my waist up by that amount.
Here’s a picture of my front and back draft.
I made my back neckline width 1/8 inch wider than my front neckline width to prevent gaping at the center front neckline. You can see on my back draft that my shoulder seam came out a little bit.
I cut a stretch lining fabric using the same front and back pattern pieces, and also cut out a facing. The lining covers the entire front and back, but not the sleeves.
I finished the lower edge of my facing with a serger, then basted it to the lining. I sewed the shoulder seams of both the lining and the fashion fabric, and then sewed my neck edge right sides together. I stitched the facing to the seam to hold it in place. Then I sewed my side seams, permanently attaching my lining to my outer by sewing all 4 fabrics at the same time.
You can see here that my lining is attached to my outer fabric.
I used my double needle for the first time. It was surprisingly easy to use, and made a nice finish that was also stretchy. They have great instructions here: http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2011/05/sewing-tips-basic-stitches-plus-double.html
I’m not quite sure what the fabric is, because I bought it from the Annex section of Mill End, but it’s a woven not a knit, so it must have some spandex in it to give it stretch.